It's a beautiful day, so I had to get a ride in. Then I got all the water bottle braze ons in.
And the stainless steel reinforcement for the front derailleur wire port. I'm undecided on where to put the wire port for the junction A to B wire. Maybe in the head tube, then route to the down tube through the vent hole.
The start of the down tube/ BB vent hole. It has to be large enough to accept the B junction.
I don't have the cable stops for the internally routed rear brake cable. So I'm on hold until they get here.
My scheduled work hasn't shown yet, so I decided to start my new frame. The front triangle tubes have the butts and bows marked out. Time to start mitering.
The first hack saw cut. Then a little file action and it's done in under 10 minutes.
And no day light at the joint.
Same with the top tube miters.
Started getting the fixture ready for the tubes. I bought the pretty head tube, so I'm going to use it, even though it's too heavy. It meets the aesthetics of what I want out of the frame. And my fancy German tapered fork is 200 gms. heavier than an ENVE any way.
The top tube is fitting up nicely.
As is my 38 mm down tube. It will move down the head tube about 5 mm more when the fit is final.
San Diego was great for riding and brewery hopping. I have a couple of frame paints and mods coming in along with a build or two, including one for me. So I thought I would make up some head badges ahead of time. Crude, but effective.
I'm going to replace my Kandy Apple Red lugged frame with a fillet brazed one. My objective is to build a more "modern" style frame. I'm using hooded dropouts and a 44 mm head tube, since they are all the rage these days.The tubes will be all S3 and I hope to be under 3 lbs. 6 oz., which is the current frames weight. But, here is the problem. This beautiful flared head tube is too dang heavy! I think I can duplicate it with a piece of straight wall tubing and some filleted reinforcing rings.