I got the dropouts brazed to the chainstays and seat tube to the bottom bracket.  I like to leave some tube showing inside the bb.  That way I can get a little fillet for additional strength even though it doesn't need it.  When the frame is complete, I will dress the inside of the bb.  You can see one of the dropout windows is almost done.

I spent the afternoon setting the tacking fixture up and at the last minute I decided to hog out the windows on the dropouts.  I might put ss faces on them also.  Time for a Sucks.

Now that the Tryptophan has worn off, I can get back to work on Tinas frame.  I identified and marked the high spot of the bow on the 3 main tubes to make sure the triangle is assembled with them in plane.  I did some carving on the seat tube port just to dress it up a little. I also reconfiguredthe port angle a little with the die grinder, workingtowardsthat 55.6 degree between the down and seat tubes. 

 I'm caught up on repairs, so back to work on Tinas frame.  The bottom bracket is set for 60.5 degrees between the down and seat tubes. But, because her frame is so small, the that angle has tightened up to 55.6, you can see the difference from the protractor.  Using my primitive benders, I was able to close the angle considerably.  I will complete the final fitment in the tacking fixture.

Here is an "almost" final dwg. of Tinas frame.  Due to her opting for 700s and the low stand over heigth, there are some tight front triangle angles.  The bb shouldn't be any problem, but the head tube lugs will probably turn into a mono-lug with re-angled ports. Her tube set is S3 and Columbus with Llewellyn lugs and bb.  The drop outs are Long Shin adjustable that weigh in at 135 gms., definitely going to hog out the windows on them.

I brazed the chain stays yesterday under my new heat lamp and it was quite nice.  With out the bb adapter I need to determine the cable routings, I probably shouldn't have,  but I was on a roll and couldn't stop.  I pre drilled the exit hole for the front derailer cable so that shouldn't be an issue.  But the entry hole into the chain stay for the rear derailer might cause me problems.  I'm going to hang it on the wall until the adapter shows up.

I went ahead and started fitting up the 410 mm chain stays last night, but had to quit early due to the poor lighting in the garage.  I can put on the chain stays and still have access to the bb where I will put in the front derailer exit port.  So now I'm thinking matte black with a gloss black logo. 

Daves commuter is complete with the new head badge and two tone back color.

Here are the entry ports for the shift cables.  The PF30 to external bearing adapter that I need will not be available until the first of the year.  I need it to ensure there will be no cable housing/bb interference when I am fitting up the routing through the bb shell.  I will probably hang this frame up and start on Tinas frame until the adapter is available.

OK, this was an interesting endeavour.  I wanted to put in the housing guides after the front triangle was brazed up because I want to use 56% silver to attach the brass housings.  It took a couple of hours of finessing, but they are now in. 

 Here is the first revised head badge, ready for Daves commuter as soon as we can find the time.  I used Craigs new Papillon TT frame that I cut the integrated seat mast on for the back drop.

 I'm actually finished with the fillet brazing and the frame will be soaking for a few hours.  I weighed all the pieces before soaking and it came out to 4lbs. 4oz.  Even with all 3 cables internally routed, .9mm top tube wall thickness, and the heavier Columbus seat tube, it will come in under 4lbs.

The Paragon dropouts are in the chain stays and I've started the finish work on them.

The head badges are going to look great.  I got as far as a brush finish on this one, but will take it to a full polish tomorrow, I hope.  I got completely wrapped around the axle on the tubing diameter size for the internal shift cable routing.  Spent way too much time fussing over .32 mm difference between tubes that I bought and one I found on-line.  Couple of brews and a good nights sleep and I'll have my answer in the morning.  I started setting up the rear triangle by bending the tabs 7 degrees and slotting the chainstays.  

 I went shopping yesterday for the proper brass and ss tube diameters for the internal routing of the shift cables and got them all but one.  I'll look some more today when I go to the weld shop.  I spent the morning drilling various holes and attaching the water bottle bosses.  I also managed to find a way to shape the larger head badge.  Major Dave might fab one for me or I think I can get one from Paragon.  It's amazing the detail the laser cutters can accomplish.

 I have started fitting up the down tube, the front will still need to drop 6 or 7 mm.  It's looking good so far.  While I was in Mexico, I decided to also run the gear cables internally, but in a very minimalist way aesthetically.  The cables will not exit out of the bottom of the down tube, but rather continue into the 51mm bottom bracket and gracefully exit in the rear lower quadrant of the shell.

The redesigned head badges showed up today!  Thanks again Jed!  Now to shape and polish a couple to see how they look.